Onto Newfoundland

After a relaxing day off the bike at Goose Bay, where the town’s curious northern delights were enjoyed by all, the group set out with a sense of anticipation of what lay ahead on the new stretch of the Trans Labrador Highway. Known as ‘phase three’, the route has only been open for just over a year and was new even for Barbara and myself as tour guides.

But first, an infamous bridge had to be crossed – an unpaved trestle, with a widely spaced metal grid and gaps large enough to swallow the tread on our off road tyres, a few heart stopping moments were experienced by the team. With this early morning ‘wake up’ behind us, we set out onto the piste and into the wilderness.

The going was good and aside from about 50 miles of fairly loose and in some places virgin un-rutted gravel, excellent time was made on this 150 mile stretch to Cartwright Junction, where two years before we had stopped our bike to peer up the then unfinished Trans Lab III, wondering what lay beyond the horizon.

Cartwright Junction is merely an intersection in the trees and with clouds of Blackfly attacking from every quarter, we didn’t hang around for too long before setting out on the old piste towards Port Hope Simpson.

A fast ride across dirt and potholes soon saw us out of the endless trees of the Labrador interior and onto more hilly terrain, with terrific vistas opening as we rode. Views that could only be enjoyed with care, as a largely gravel free road now presented us with a series of new challenges in the form of deep pot holes and large stones.

The final Labrador stage, the following day, was the infamous ‘pink porridge’, notorious from our research trip, a 40 mile stretch of deep pink gravel and mud which combined with hurricane force winds and heavy rain had resulted in an ordeal which is still etched in our minds.

But there was to be an anti climax. Bright sun and a cloudless sky were to be our companions as we set out onto the gravel and it was not long before we cheerfully realised that much of the pink gravel had gone. We had been told in 2009 that moves were afoot to get rid of the pink porridge and it seems that road crews have been busy since then. A Porridge of loose stone was replaced with an exhilarating and in places quite smooth ride along largely gravel free roads. Odd patches of remaining pink stuff and potholes being the main hazards of the day. This, our final day on the dirt was enjoyed by all and the stunning mountainous scenery could be properly appreciated by all.

And so after a final long uphill stretch, we topped the rise and before us lay the long Atlantic shore, steep marching headlands, the town of Red Bay and the start of the tarmac road. After around 800 miles of dirt roads many were relived to be on a solid surface again.

Red Bay itself boasts an excellent restaurant, some of the finest views on the Labrador coast and an interesting heritage museum which details Red Bay’s history as a whaling station in the 17th Century, which at the time meant that it was the first industrialised place on the North American continent.

With only 30 miles to go before reaching the hotel, there was a long sojourn at Red Bay before the group set out onto the coast road towards L’Anse au Clair. A ride that included stunning costal views and long curves and bends as the road rose and fell over the tall headlands.

The following morning saw a brief ride, in fog, to the ferry, where we embarked for the 90 minute journey to Newfoundland. We left Labrador with great memories of riding the lonely roads through that almost primordial place and a few of us stood at the stern of the ship watching this land of mystery disappear into the gathering mists.

Newfoundland greeted the group with rain. Lots of rain. The 150 mile ride to Rocky Harbour held no real challenges, but the mist and rain meant that the dramatic Long Range and Gross Morne mountains were hidden from view as we rode. Fortunately, comfortable accommodations and a chance to dry out in Rocky Harbour offered some compensation – plus the first draft beer for well over a week; enjoyed by all, some more excessively than others.

The rain persisted and the long ride to Trinity from Rocky Harbour was one of mere mileage munching as everyone hunkered down and focused on getting the day out of the way. Once again Newfoundland’s splendour was hidden from view as we rode.

Trinity lies on the pretty Bonavista Peninsular and is the oldest ‘proper’ town on the North American continent. A wet arrival to the 1960s style ‘Heidi-Hi’ cabins just outside the old town meant that the focus was on having showers and getting our kit dry, but the weather rewarded us by clearing up well before dusk allowing a pleasant walk into Trinity and an opportunity to admire its beautiful location and historic buildings.

‘Disco Dave’ as he is now known (see note about Rocky Harbour) had a chance encounter with one of Trinity’s restaurateurs and this resulted in an excellent meal of Cod in an lovely harbour side location.

The following day was to mark our arrival in St John’s. But with only 170 miles to do that day, the group decided to spend some more time exploring Trinity before we all set off mid-morning. Some of us also visited New Bonaventure, where the movie ‘Shipping News’ was filmed.

With clear but windy weather, Newfoundland could finally be properly enjoyed and terrific vistas opened up as we headed south and east onto the Avalon Peninsular. Long views over the hills and out to sea reminding us of the west coast of Ireland and the Bodmin area of Cornwall.

We regrouped for the final ride to Cape Spear, the most easterly point in the whole of the Americas and the focus of our journey since we left Vancouver on July 23rd. A triumphant group of riders turned the final bend to arrive at the point which marks the end of the easterly trail. Handshakes and smiles all round, plus a group photo marked the occasion.

We are now in St John’s and the group is enjoying a well-deserved day off after their great coast to coast achievement. Ahead lies the ferry to Nova Scotia and the Cabot Trail – another much anticipated part of our journey – before we finally arrive in Halifax and the end of our long, but fantastic journey. More from me when we reach Halifax.